Bonnie Pilgrim

Bonnie's artistic style and fashionable flair of her personal style is what caught my eye whilst scrolling on Instagram one night searching under the hashtag of #Japan and Geo tag 'Bunka Fashion College' the tag of Bonnie's fashion school that she attends in Japan. I was fascinated by her photos and Instagram stories of her living abroad and studying in Japan, little did I know at the time, before I reached out, that Bonnie was Melbourne born and raised. During our conversation on Instagram, I soon found out about her amazing personality and bilingual lifestyle living in Japan and studying fashion merchandising and distribution, sort of like fashion textile merchandising here, but different! Taking a leap of faith and studying abroad and experiencing an interesting, exciting and an overall very fashionable adventure in Japan. Bonnie took the time to be interviewed about the ins and outs of what it is like to study fashion in Japan.
 

Firstly, what made you want to study fashion design? Have you always been creative?  (Does it run in the family? you mentioned your brother is doing it too) 

まずは、どうしてファッションを勉強したかったんですか？家族の影響がありますか？

I’m actually in the 流通 department which is merchandising and distribution, but we still have to make clothes as part of the curriculum - which I’m awful at.

My brother also did textiles and merchandising at RMIT and now works at head office for Cotton On Australia, but I would say a lot of my influence does come from him. My parents on the other side are completely different (being a motorbike mechanic and a teacher) so I don’t think much comes from there haha.

実はデザイン科じゃなくて、流通科の学生なので、服作りがあまり上手くないのですが、必須科目なので、作らないといけないです。

兄はRMIT大学で流通科卒で今コットオンというアパレルブランドの企業で働いてるから兄の影響が強いかもしれません。

So, originally you're from Melbourne, what made you want to study fashion design in Japan at Bunka Fashion College, rather than here in Melbourne?

メルボルン出身じゃないですか？どうしてメルボルンの学校より、日本の文化服装学院に行こうと思いましたか？

I am! When I was in High school I did a long term exchange in the Japanese country side, which after coming back and graduating in Australia had me going back 7 times in 2016. I thought it was a waste of money to keep doing so, so I thought it was time to pack up and move to Japan! I love the place, and Melbourne was never actually an option when it came to study (although I did attend Monash for half a year after graduation).

In 2015 Bunka was ranked the 2nd best fashion school in the world so I thought there couldn’t be a better place to learn.

はい、メルボルン出身です！高校の時に日本の田舎に長期留学をして、帰国しても2016年は7回も旅行とかで日本に行ってしまったので、お金もったいないと思うって、大学を休学して、文化に行くことにしました。モナッシュ大学は半年間通ってたんですけど、やはり自分のやりたいこととは違うと気付いて、文化が2015年にファッション学校の世界ランキングで2位だったので、ファッションを学ぶんだったらちゃんとした学校に行きたいと思いました。

Was it hard to move from home to live in Japan to studying your passion? How's your experience been so far? 

夢のために海外に引っ越すの難しかっですか？ 今までの経験は？

It was difficult making the money (although my parents are helping me out).I worked 2 jobs for the second half of 2016 to save up enough for tuition. Other than that I was already used to the Japanese culture and lifestyle so it wasn’t really difficult adjusting.

However, one thing I did learn is that living ALONE in a foreign country is difficult regardless. And no matter how many friends you may have it can be very lonely without family. Also material fibre class is a killer in Japanese haha. 

お金を貯めるのが1番大変でした。学費を出すために2016年の後半はバイトを２つしてました。

高校の時の経験もあったから日本の文化と生活リズムはもうなれてたからそこまで困ったことないんですけど、1人くらいはやはり寂しいです。素材の授業を日本語で受けるのもなかなかですよ。(笑)

It's so cool you're bilingual, how long have you been learning Japanese? 

バイリンガルって素晴らしいですね！いつから日本語勉強してるんですか？

Thank you!! 

I started in my first year of high school, so when I was 13! We had to choose two out of 3 foreign languages and I was already forced to do Italian in primary school (which I did NOT enjoy to say the least) so there was only French and Japanese left. When we went up into year 8 we had to choose between the languages and I thought for sure I’d choose French but I ended up not liking it and loving Japanese and the rest is history.

ありがとうございます！

中学校1年の時に外国語の授業が義務で３ヶ国語の中で2ヶ国語を選べないといけなかったので、日本語とフランス語にて、日本語がめっちゃ楽しいと思って、好きになりました！

What have you experienced so far studying fashion in Japan? 

今まで日本のファッション学校での経験は？

Learning how to make clothes. Something which I could never do, hence why I chose the distribution course. This academic year I’ve made a skirt, pants, shirt and recently a jacket. I hated it at first but now I’ve really come to enjoy it so I kinda wish I chose the textile class instead!

服作りです。以前はできなかったことなので、流通科選んだ理由の１つです。この１年間の中でスカート、ズボン、シャツとジャケットも作れるようになりました。最初は嫌いだったんですけど、テキスタイル科に行けばよかったと思うくらい好きになりました。

Run us down a "typical" student day for you. ( 9-5 sort of thing) 

学生してる間の日常生活はどんな感じですか？

I wake up at around 6:30 am, shower and then eat breakfast. After that I get ready for school and catch the train at around 8:20 which gets me to Shinjuku station at around 8:50. From the South exit it’s about a 7 minute walk to school and from then I jump in the elevator and go up to the 17th floor (which is where my classroom is located). From there depending on the day we have 3/4 subjects (1.5 hours each) and a lunch break from 12:30-1:30 on early days we end at 3:00 but on late days it’s 4:45 so it’s a bit of a haul sometimes especially when we have double apparel classes.

On top of that subjects range from fashion business, fashion design, material fibres, fashion co-ordination, market research, fashion history, computer design, colors, special lectures and a class to prepare you for the work place.

６時半頃に起きて、シャワー浴びて、ご飯食べてゆっくり準備をする。８時半頃の電車に乗ると新宿駅に着くのがちょうど8時５０分前後になります。それで新宿駅の南口から７分歩いて、エレベーターに乗って、教室がある17階に向かいます。

それから日によって、時間割が異なりますが、基本的に1限は1時間半で3限まである日があれば4限の日もあります。お昼休みは１２時から１時半までで終わるのは大体３時頃です。

義務科目はアパレル、ファッションビジネス、マーケットリサーチ、色彩、ファッションコーディネート、ファッションデザイン、パソコン、西洋ファッション史、素材論、特別講義とキャリアです。

What's the coolest thing about living in Japan? 

日本に住んでよかったと思うことは？

Getting to see my friends everyday. There’s always something to do in Japan and everything is convenient, it’s always fun hanging out with my friends speaking in a language that I love doing something that your everyday person wouldn’t be able to.

What do you think about the style and fashion trends over there compared to Australia? Do you think different styles have influenced your own personal take on design? 

日本のファッショントレンドはオーストラリアのに比べたらどう思いますか？影響されたと思いますか？

I do! My fashion has definitely changed since moving here because people dress for fashion here, as opposed to comfort, (opposite to that of Australia). I can wear clothes which a lot of my Aussie friends would think were eccentric, or too colourful I’m not in to the Harajuku scene or anything but even then they’d tell me wearing things like a yellow coat would be too obnoxious! I’ve also decreased the amount of make up I wear and learnt to be more happier with my appearance.

影響されたと思います。こっちに引っ越してから自分のファッションは本当に変わったと思います。日本人はおしゃれするのが好きですが、オーストラリア人は着やすくて動きやすい服が好きなので、日本にいる時はオーストラリア人が奇抜か派手だと思う服は普通に着ることができます。メークも使わなくていて、すっぴんだけで満足出来るようにはなりましたね。

Merchandising is forever changing, where would your dream job be for working in this area?   

マーチャンダイジングは永遠に変化してます。この分野で勤めたいところはどこになりますか？

I’m not quite sure at the moment but I’d like to learn a lot more about clothing around the world through an international position. I’d like to try advising for a company or international relations for a company in different countries.

まだ決まっていませんが、今はもっと服のことが知りたくて、国際的な仕事がしたいです。アドバイザーとか、海外でのやりとりをする人にはなりたいと思っています！

Do you think you'll work in Japan once you've graduated? What do you wish to do? Start your own label maybe? 

卒業したら日本で働くつもりですか？夢は？自分のブランドを立ち上げるとかは？

Yes I’d love to work here, as for now I’m working as a assistant for the editor of a pretty massive magazine here so I’d like to do a bit of that a see where it takes me, but maybe someday with my brothers help doing a joint project or something would be cool!

是非ここで就職したいと思います。今は結構有名な雑誌でアシスタントとして働いているので、それを少しずつやりながら、夢に向かって頑張りたいと思います。いつか兄とも何かコラボレーションでもできるといいと思っています。

 

Will you eventually return to Melbourne? 

いつかメルボルンに帰りますか？

Maybe. I used to always say I’d stay here in Japan my whole life but I’d like to be close to my family as well so doing a job that allows me to travel both places would be ideal. Melbourne is a great place!

まだ分かんないです。前はずっと日本で良いと言ってたんですけど、家族のそばに居たいので、オーストラリアでも日本でもできる仕事はしたいと思っています。やはり地元が好きです。


 

Advice to anyone who wants to study fashion design abroad? 

最後に、海外でファッションを学びたい人へのアドバイスは？

If you want to enrol as an international aren’t fluent in the other language I wouldn’t recommend it because not only school but everyday life might be difficult. However, as exchange I’d say go for it because it will definitely become one of if not the best experiences in your life, I could not recommend it more!

留学したいた思っていても行きたい国の言語が話せないと勧められません。学校だけじゃなくて日常生活で困ると思うので大変だと思いますが、人生でせめて一回海外は行った方が良いと思います。将来も凄く影響されると思うので、言葉で表せないくらいおススメです。


 

Quick Foxy 5

Favourite food? 好きな食べ物は？

Tamagoyaki 卵焼き (Japanese sweet egg roll)

I never leave the home without my..... 必ずないと家を出れないものは？

Phone, wallet, make up bag  携帯、財布、メイク道具

Favourite music? 好きな音楽？

Fall out boy, Green apple, BTS

I'm currently watching.... 最近よく見てるのは？

YouTube, I live off it. But other than that a range of Japanese variety television.

Youtubeはいつも見てますが、他にも日本のコメディ番組がすごく好きです。


Special thanks to Bonnie

xx
You too can follow Bonnie online on her Instagram @Bonnie_pilgrim

 

Harry Millward

Harry recently completed his diploma of applied fashion design and technology at Kangan. 
Having grown up on a farm two hours north Adelaide, Harry decided to move to  Melbourne at 22. Before studying fashion, Harry had worked nearly over six years as a photographer digital-retoucher, working at studios and with photographers for his own business.  Having a  love for fashion , but was unsure if he could ever become a designer. That all changed one day at Kangan's open day.  They required a portfolio of which he didn’t have one, Harry didn't even know how to sew but took his photography portfolio in to show them. " I told them I was starting off without any background knowledge but this was the creativity, and the drive I brought to the table, that I would work hard, and somehow I got in," Harry says.  

You've just completed your Diploma of Applied Fashion Design and Technology, Tell us what you've experience during your time at Kangan.  

Having just finished my diploma, I can tell you my education in fashion design has just begun. I’m planning to return next year to start my advanced diploma. I never want to stop learning!

I never came from a fashion background, and before Kangan I’d never really sewed besides a few stitches at home many years ago. My first few weeks were an overwhelming surge of self-doubt. Thanks however to some teachers who gave me the support I needed as well as mule like sense of stubbornness that wouldn’t let me give up.

Certainly one my biggest ups so far would have to be receiving the Technology Award at last year’s fashion show, and then almost falling off the stage after being taking one too many sips of wine…

Kangan has become a home and a family in my time there, with all the love, fights, support that comes with it.

Most difficult thing you've had to learn since studying fashion design?

The trick is to keep breathing… just breath god damn it! I learned that just because something goes wrong it’s not the end of the world. If the fabric shrinks, just go with it, make it the best you can do and make sure no one can hear you swear at your mannequin for inexplicitly changing size since the last time you tried on the garment.

Favourite part about being a designer?

The creative process, finding an idea that spills into an image, then an object. Sometimes I feel like I’m turning energy into matter, and nothing makes me happier.

Have you completed any internship since studying? If so what did you learn during your internship? 

I had an internship with Rollie (www.rollienation.com) this year, a very cool Melbourne based shoe designer whose process was very tech orientated, always using new programs, new tech, and anything he could to keep his processes moving forward. 
It was an amazing environment to be in, I observed that with a small and smart team how much work could be done  if you were smart and adaptable enough. The owner/designer Vince Lebon showed me a ton of different ways I could do what I was already doing easier, faster, and better.

What do you aspire/ hopes/ dreams to eventually be in the fashion game? 

This is the question I’m asked most often, but also the hardest for me to answer…

I’d love to start my own label, fashion that is beyond mainstream trends.
The saying goes ‘you can’t choose your family, but you can your friends’, and similarly you cannot choose your body, your skin, but you can wear a new skin, and I think that’s what fashion should be.

What was your inspiration behind your final collection?  

For my final show garment this year, which I called Bio, I was inspired by the metamorphic and whimsical qualities of the moth/butterfly. I loved the metaphor as a personal story from camouflage to evolution and growth.  I used 100% linen and created the print for the skirt using a photograph I took of tree bark.

 

Also do you have any side projects on at the moment?

I’m really enjoying using my break to work on my digital and traditional drawing. I’d like to use more of my own art to create textiles as a move forwards which makes things so much more fun and personal. 

Anyone you aspire or look up to in the design industry?

There are a TON of people I look up to in the fashion industry, designers, photographers, hair/makeup/drag artists, models, and stylists. I have a special place in my heart for Garth Pugh, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and an extra gaudy place for old school Heatherette.

Advice to anyone wanting to study your course? 

Enjoy everything! Don’t be lazy! 
So many people just turn up and expect the system to turn their work into something amazing, but it won’t, it can’t, it’s all about taking the small things as opportunities to learn and to stand out!

Special Thanks to Harry! 

xxx

 

Quick Foxy Questions

Summer or Winter?

Omg Winter! More layers to play with, no sweat, and no damn sunburn!

My favourite item in my wardrobe?



Recently I went with the VM students of Kangan on their trip to Japan and found some fashion stores that blew my mind! Right now I’m obsessed with this vest.

 

One app I'm totally into right now is….

My sister sent me this app the other day called Good On You (goodonyou.org.au) it’s an amazing app that follows the ethical and environmental impact of different Australian fashion retailers!

 

Favourite music?

 Right now I’m really into the band Chvrches, Sia, Garbage. But I listen to everything from Within Tempation to Rupaul.

Most difficult thing you've had to learn since studying fashion design? Knitting! My hands just don’t seem to get it...

Jess Faragò

Meet Jess Farago, a talented second-year fashion design student  who is about to enter her second semester of her second year at Kangan institute. Coming from a completely different industry before she started her course, Jess had been a chef for the last 12 years. Although having a natural creative flair when creating her dishes, she wanted to express her creativity through fashion.  Jess felt it was time to do something different and follow her passion for art and design.  Since studying, she learnt that you can do anything if you put your mind to it..

You're about to finish your 2nd year in fashion design at Kangan
Tell us your experience so far, what you've learnt up's and downs! The Nitty Gritty!

I have found the second year a giant leap from first. From someone that had never touched a sewing machine when I started, to where I am now, and what I have achieved, I almost can't comprehend it myself. My teachers have been the most amazing influence, motivation and support. I've learnt I am so much more capable of things I never thought possible. I am a very creative person and have been a chef for 12 years. I've always used creativity to create dishes, but I've always painted and love using every element of my creative side to produce something. I also learnt that this course is hard, challenging and time-consuming. Whoever said it was easy was wrong.

What do you aspire/ hopes/ dreams to eventually be in the fashion game?

I am obsessed with vintage and retro. My obsession with op shops started years ago when I couldn't afford to but clothes from regular shops. So I would head out and chose Nanna daggy clothes and my goal became to pull them off by doing them up. Ideally, I would love to get into something vintage. I love design, and with my particular colourful style, I would suit retro/vintage. But after work experience, I love pattern making/garment technician. So I'll go from there. Work on those goals

Most difficult thing you've had to learn since studying fashion design?

To trust myself and have faith in myself and to believe. You Come across so many times when you feel like you can't do something, or you want to give up. You look around you and no matter how hard you try, you can't help but compare yourself to your peers. And honestly, it can be hard to not shut yourself down, as you think your work is nothing in comparison to others. But I've learnt through this, that everyone's work is different: different style, different taste, different theme. I also learnt you can do anything you put your mind to.

Also do you have any side projects at the moment?

Seeing school has been crazy, the only side project I had been making myself a floral vintage dress; that's on hold at the minute. My new project is to make my partner an 80's inspired jacked worn by a member of his favourite band "Japan."

Anyone you aspire or look up to in the design industry?

Can I say my teachers? haha. I really do. I wouldn't be where I am without them! 
Also, I love Pierre Cardin.

Favourite part about being a designer?

Being creative. Using different mediums. Being able to express myself through designing. It's such an amazing way to express myself, and really be at my happiest    

For your final collection, what was your inspiration behind it ?  What materials did you use and what was the process?

My inspiration was the 20th-century art movement, surrealism, and my love for the flower lily. I combined the 2 to come up with a bright and colourful outfit to resemble lilies. But to also make you think when you look at it (the surrealist part). The theme is named "lily of dreams", as surrealism was to "resolve the previously contradictory conditions of dream and reality." I used fabric manipulation to create a whole lot of lily petals, that were seen into the bottom half of my skirt, speckled with silk leaves. It was a very challenging and time-consuming process. Almost like costume making

Quick Foxy Questions! 

Favourite holiday destination? 

My favourite holiday destination is my beach house in Venus Bay. 

Heels or flats? 

​
I broke my ankle a couple years ago, so sadly, I'm limited to flats. But I love a good pair of docs.

Favourite food?

I'm a chef!!! That's a tough one. Um, my Thai rice noodle chicken coconut broth with lots of veggies, chilli, cashews and herbs. 
And my spag bol. Can't beat it

We wish Jess love and luck for her third and final year at  Kangan. 

JENNA RUTH FLOOD

JENNA RUTH FLOOD

Jenna has just recently finished her diploma in fashion textile merchandising at Kangan institute in Melbourne Richmond. It’s in fact the same course I completed so many moons ago.

Jenna has a great eye for fashion, ( we own the same bag from nakedvice) also she loves to read and enjoys a good baked cupcake.

 

Additionally like many of us have an undoubtedly desire to shop. Jenna is also up an up coming fashion blogger in the industry. http://ironicminimalist.com/   which I suggest you foxes check out! Eventually she hopes to return to kangan and learn fashion styling.

 She has taken the time to answer a few curious Q’s about the textile merchandising industry side of things .

 

·    

You have completed your Diploma of fashion textile merchandise how was your time staying fashion been? Tell us the up’s and downs, and the things you've learnt most since your time at Kangan?

I was unsure when I first started at Kangan, I hadn’t been in a class room environment since 2012 when I was studying hairdressing. But I really enjoyed it! I made so many new friends and learnt so many new skills. I learnt things I would have never guessed about the Fashion and Textile Industry.

The teachers were really understanding and helpful with any questions, sometimes going above and beyond to help you. Assignments due dates could be stressful, but its good training for any stressful times in the industry!

Have you completed any internships since studying? If so what did you learn from your internship?

I had two weeks work experience at the Cotton On Group Head office where I helped the Product Developers of Factorie, Tbar, and Cotton On Men’s and Women’s wear. I learnt how a garment is created, from measuring a sample garment to ensure it’s to the correct specs, to liaising with international suppliers to creating a merchandising schedules for the stores.

I also had a month long internship at Rollie shoes. I learnt how to create online marketing media, generate spreadsheets for international factories, and I even got to feature in a photo shoot!

What do you eventually want to 'be' in the fashion game?

My ideal position is to be a social media coordinator/ brand manager for a fashion label. I would love to control the social media accounts and project the brand image to its consumers. I have started to build myself an online presence to help reach this goal. I also love trend research and the ethical side of fashion.

I would also love to have my blog recognised in the industry and be invited to a fashion week… preferably NYFW!

Most difficult thing you've had to learn since studying fashion textile merchandising?

When I was studying it was defiantly hard to manage my time as I can be a bit lazy sometimes! But I soon learnt that the sooner you get it done the better. Now that I have finished my course, I’ve learnt that it’s hard to get into your ideal position in the industry. You really have to work hard and do the dirty jobs!

 

Anyone you admire in the fashion design industry?

I love Melbourne’s label Nakedvice for their beautiful leather bags. I also love Dion lee and Alexander Wang, both of these designers produce the most amazing designs with every collection.

 

Lastly what's your advice to anyone wanting to study your course?

Have an open mind, there is so much to learn in this industry and you will continue learning even after you finish the course. Make use of the books and magazines in the library, they have some really relevant ones for students to use. And don’t think you are ever too old to study! I started the course when I was about 24!

 

Quick Foxy Questions!

Where are you currently working?

I currently training to work at a new international brand coming to Australia, I’m not sure if I can say who yet… so keep your eyes peeled at Melbourne Central for the opening on the 22nd of October!

  Favourite parts of the course?

Learning CAD (Illustrator and Photoshop), Trend Research using social media and WGSN, Fashion Marketing, and Range Designing.

If I could go anywhere right now I’d go to……..

Japan! I love the countries diverse culture and would love to see the cherry blossom trees. I am also obsessed with “Memoirs of a Geisha”.My favourite item in my wardrobe?I have two! My leather jacket and my Black High Waisted Lee Jeans, they are both heaven to wear and can be thrown on in a rush to make my outfit perfect!

Chocolate or Jelly?

CHOCOLATE!

Krystianna Dower

Meet Kangan fashion design student Krystianna. She has been currently studying at Kangan Tafe, just recently completing her Diploma of Applied Fashion Design and Technology.  Krystianna will be commencing her next fashion chapter studying the Advanced Diploma next year at Kangan.  

Today she gives an insight on student life. From internships to assignments  and her passion for fashion illustrations. 

 

Krystianna tells us so far her experience studying fashion design at Kangan,and her hopes and dreams within in fashion the industry 

Your about to complete your Diploma of Applied Fashion Design and Technology, how has your fashion design studying journey been? Tell us the up’s and downs, the things you've learnt most since your time at Kangan? 

 I have learnt so much in the past two years while studying at Kangan. I didn’t just learn how to sew, pattern make and design, I learnt life skills and independence. I moved out of home to Melbourne from a small town to follow my chosen career path of fashion design when I was only 16. It has been an incredible journey of highs and lows. Time management was a big thing, the pressure was full on but in the end it was all worth it and would not of had it any other way.  

Have you completed any internships since studying? If so what did you learn? 

 I completed two weeks of work experience. One week with Melissa Jackson Millinery and one week at Arthur Galan. I learnt the pressures of the Industry and how there are no second chances. It is a non-stop industry. I was lucky enough to work at Arthur Galan during the time of Virgin Australian Melbourne Fashion Festival.     

What do you aspire/ hopes/ dreams to eventually be in the fashion game? 

 I would love to be able to make a living of my illustrations it is my absolute passion, I hope to one day have my own studio and freelance. I am also in love with designing. I am quiet interested in swimwear, and while returning to Kangan next year to complete my Advanced Diploma I am looking forward to creating a swimwear collection. 

Your illustrations are amazing, how did you learn to draw was it a talent or a certain process you do to create your fashion illustrations? 

 As a little kid I used to travel a lot with my family, which meant a lot of hours spent in the car with heaps of paper, pencils and markers. I used to pretend to design for Roxy, Billabong, Rusty and all of those popular brands. Ever since then I’ve been designing, it wasn’t until I was 15 when I really started to improve on my drawings. I drew portraits and just really focused a lot on the detail. My art teacher in year 10 would always say that drawing did not come naturally to me. Now I would be lost if i could’t draw it just comes so naturally. Ive improved immensely, especially in the past 6 months. If you want to be good at something you just have to keep going at it everyday, and there is always room for improvement.

 

 

Most difficult thing you've had to learn since studying fashion design?

 I would usually say sewing or pattern making, as they are definitely not my stronger subjects, but probably learning time management. There is no time to think in the fashion industry, and you usually have to go with the first idea that pops in to your head, just to get everything done in time. I find this hard as I constantly change design ideas almost weekly. In the past 6 months I feel like this is something I am learning fast and probably one of the most important things you need to learn. 

Also do you have any side projects at the moment?

At the moment I don’t have any side projects, I need about 3 weeks of sleep to recover from finishing my course! Although I am studying a business diploma on the side, and I also draw/illustrate any chance I get.

Anyone you aspire or look up to in the design industry?

 Toni Maticevski. I am in love with his designs and how unique he is. Toni's attention to detail is incredible. It is important to stay true to yourself especially when fashion is an industry full of companies stealing ideas, and you will usually find the same garment in about 5 different stores. There are a lot of people out there doing the same thing. Toni’s garments are art, there different and I love that. 

And what keeps you motivated through out your studying as we all know fashion design can be quiet difficult at times! What keeps you in there? - It has been extremely tough to stay motivated throughout this course. It is easy to fall off course and quit. Although the pressure of it all excites me, there is a fine line between it being fun and too much. The person who motivated me would be my mum. Whenever I felt down and I couldn’t do it anymore, she always reminded me why I started and how it was all going to be worth it in the end, she always picked me up when I was down. My mum is the one who made sure I never gave up. She was right and I would do it all over again. 

Favourite part about being a designer ?

 Designing of course, and also illustrating my designs. My favourite feeling is after working so hard on your design and seeing the end result, it is so rewarding! 

 

 

For your final collection, what was your inspiration behind it ?  What materials did you use and what was the process?

 Our brief for the final collection was to design a range of outfits that was created using pre-loved Red Cross garments, to promote sustainability. The inspiration behind my collection was the art movement minimalism, focusing on photography of landscapes, and the colours of a sunset over the ocean. To mix it up a bit, I also researched architectures and was interested in the line work. This lead me to dye an old bed sheet I bought from Red Cross the colours of my mood board and to smock the fabric to represent the line work of the architecture. 

Advice to anyone wanting to study your course? 

 It is honestly one of the best courses to study if you want to get in to the fashion industry. It is very hands on and and you learn so much. The teachers there are incredible. The course is especially good if your a beginner, and have never even a touched a sewing machine before. Thats one of the things I loved about the course we could all be of different age, but we all started at the same place.

 

Quick Foxy Questions! 

 

If i could go anywhere right now i'd go to…….. Europe for sure! I actually leave in 8 weeks for my holiday over there, would be nice if it was sooner:)

heels or flats? Heels for sure

My favourite item in my wardrobe? At the moment my new Sass & Bide knits I got second hand from Red Cross, I got one in black and beige and they go with everything. 

 

Pasta or Pizza? Thats a hard one I love them both, but probably pasta!


Special Thanks to Krystianna xxx 

Instagram: KRYSTIDOWER

Interested in studying Fashion at Kangan? Click here! 

Debbie Yann

Meet talented fourth year RMIT fashion design student Debbie Yann.

Born and bred in Melbourne town, a beach goer and a love for all extreme sports such as skiing, hiking and wake boarding! She is not only fond of fashion design, but as well  a passion for other artistic creations being photography and watercolour painting.
During VAMFF 2015 I wore one of Debbie's show stoping pieces. The detail and amount of hours put into the feathered creation paid off, as it had people stopping in their tracks. 

Debbie gives an in depth insight about what's it like being a fashion student!
 

You’re currently a fourth and final year design student at RMIT,
Tell us about what you’ve felt you’ve learnt since studying your achievements

Well on a technical level, pretty much everything! I came into fashion design without any real background in fashion. I’d made a couple of quicksew dresses growing up (you know, the patterns you can buy from spotlight?), but my design experience had been in graphic design and art during high school. I still remember going into my first patternmaking class in 1st year not knowing what ‘patternmaking’ was. I was expecting graphic designs for print patterns or something! We spent the class being walked through drafting up a skirt block, and it wasn’t until the end when the teacher told us we’d be sewing the toile of it the next day that I actually realised what the hell we were doing!

I’ve come a long way since then, both technically and mentally. My years of study have given me a really broad body of knowledge of fashion design. They teach us all the fundamentals of patternmaking and textiles, as well as fashion history and a business course related to the fashion industry. But I think one of the most important things you learn is an approach to fashion design. They give you the space and mentoring needed to develop a fashion practice, and a way of thinking about design so that you can use fashion design as a means of communication to convey complex concepts or statements about society or culture. 

 jnipr collection

 

How did you come up with the idea for your current collection/ project?

Currently, my 4th year work is interrogating processes of cultural appropriation and exploitation. I’m focusing particularly on capitalist consumer culture’s tendency to ‘exotify’ and idealise ‘primitive cultures’, and the way in which it commodifies the cultural material of such ‘primitive’ cultures. There’s a lot of sensitive issues in there, and a long history of Colonial forces appropriating cultural material, that often has strong symbolic meaning to the native culture, for its own capitalist interests. My interest in this area comes from a couple of angles: first, my own background interest in sociology and anthropology, and the academic theories about the various processes going on in this topic. I’m also fascinated by the ‘primal’ decorative techniques, and was interested in investigating working with hand embellishment techniques.

I wanted to combine my own respect for the beauty of the work of these ‘primitive’ cultures with an interrogation of the appropriation processes that such cultures are often subjected to. We’ve all seen the shocking abuses of such cultural material of late, what with the rise of the ‘Cochella Navaho’, and the insensitive appropriations from designers such as Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel in the Dallas Cowboys and Indians collection a couple seasons back, or some of the looks H&M brought out a little while back. I wanted to interrogate the issue, and look at ways of using the traditional techniques of these ‘primitive cultures’ to make a statement about the insensitive ways that western capitalist culture appropriates and commodifies cultural material.

 

 jnipr collection

What is the process about your current project?

My work involves a lot of research, and a lot of handwork at the moment. I’m going through a lot of sociological readings related to Colonialism and Eurocentric treatments of ‘primitive cultures’, as well as carefully researching the cultures being affected by appropriation and the traditional values and meanings of their cultural material. I then draw on this research to investigate ways of taking that ‘inspiration’ from primitive decoration/dress and putting it through a process of western appropriation, so that original meanings are torqued and stripped, and the end result is a blatantly exotified version of the original. I use the hands-on techniques of the original artisans, but the pieces I’m creating are meant to be hyper-styled versions of the original inspiration pieces/cultures, which homogenise that culture’s aesthetic markers and create an aesthetic that fits with western propriety. That’s where the hyper-colour dyed elements, and metallic finishes and such start to come in.

And how do you source the right leather and feathers for this process?

All of my feathers I buy online, because I haven’t really found any brick-and-mortar retailers of feathers (plus, they’re expensive, so online wholesalers are the way to go). There’s a great U.S. based site called ‘Moonlight Feathers’ that has heaps of really beautiful exotic feathers (I got some stunning – cruelty-free – Macaw feathers from them the other week). I also use Feathers.com (based in NSW). They’re whom I got all the Emu feathers for the first piece for my 4th year collection from.

As for leather, I generally go to Lefflers Leather over in West Melbourne. It’s a fantastic warehouse full of hundreds of different types of leather, tanned in a massive variety of colours and finishes. Plus they’re got every leatherworking accessory you’ll need.

 

What’s your favorite fashion design technique to work with?

When I’m designing, I begin with selecting a fabric, and then I’m all about draping on the stand. I find designing in 3D makes the most sense, not to mention draping allows you opportunity for beautiful accidents or surprises. You can be pinning something up, and an unexpected drape in the fabric appears that becomes a new focus point within the design.

 

Most difficult thing to have to learn in fashion design?

Gerber. Hate it! Gerber is the CAD patternmaking program that we had to do a few courses in. I am not the most tech-savvy person when it comes to PCs. Adobe creative suite, I can do, but after converting to Apple products during high school, I am only really Mac-literate! I can see the benefits of the Gerber program – quicker patternmaking, and way easier to grade pattern in it… but I think I’ll leave that side of fashion design to somebody else!

 

Also do you have any side projects at the moment?

Well, alongside my studies, I’ve got my own little studio label going, called ‘jnipr’. It’s small and I guess sits somewhere between streetwear and demi-couture. I do it just as a kooky little creative outlet, where I can make things without needing to feel fettered by folio requirements or design briefs. I showed a small capsule collection for jnipr in December last year at the First Kiss event that you covered, which was really fun, but a lot of work! Semester had just finished, and there was a bit over a month until the event. So I made a (somewhat ambitious) decision to put together a new capsule collection for it. Four outfits, 2 tailored jackets, hand-finished cut-out patterns, and lots of feathers and sequins… and no social life for that month! But it was worth it in the end. The collection is up on jnipr’s website now (https://jnipr.squarespace.com). Since then, I’ve been doing a lot of hand work with feathers and leather, and I keep an instagram account of behind the scenes studio progress.

 

 

Anyone you aspire or look up to in the design industry?

There’s a (not entirely) small list… I suppose the big three designers that I look up to are Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior, and Madeleine Vionnet.

McQueen, for his vividly creative collections and ground-breaking approach to producing a fashion show. Something in his design aesthetic and the conceptual depth to his collections really resonates with me, and the fashion industry is surely missing something since his sad departure.

Christian Dior, for the majesty and wonder that he managed to re-infuse the fashion world with post-war, as he helped to usher in the golden age of couture. The label, Dior, I think still has much of that same spirit of majesty in its haute couture design. I just recently saw the film, ‘Dior and I’, about Raf Simon’s first collection as new creative director at Dior a couple of seasons back, and the whole world of couture just captivates me. It’s a fantastic film, not only because I think Raf is incredible, but it shows so much of what happens in the atelier, and gives proper credit to the workers producing the collection behind the scenes.

And, lastly, Vionnet… Such an inspiration for her genius in pattern cutting (though little known in mainstream circles, she’s pretty much credited as the best dressmaker in the history of fashion – she invented the bias cut, for god’s sake!) Furthermore, she was a bit of a revolutionary, and promoted the rights of her workers. I think that the fashion industry is going a bit of a sad way at the moment, with far too much exploitation of underprivileged workers, as well as far too much waste and excessive product being produced. If more minds like Vionnet were influencing fashion, then the industry would be steered in a far more promising direction.

The emu ruff is inspired by the feathered headdresses (enkuraru) of the Massai warriors of Kenya. It is meant to play with themes of Colonialism and homogenisation and insensitive appropriation of cultural material. 

 This is still a work in progress, so please note that this is just a preview of the body of work. 

 

And what keeps you motivated through out your studying as we all know fashion design can be quiet difficult at times! What keeps you in there?

A lot of the time, stubbornness! There’s always those times when everything piles up, and you know that the only way through it is going to be no social life and a late night (or all-nighter) every night trying to get through the workload (and even then you might not get it all done). I’m sure everybody else studying the course will agree that sometimes it’s absolute hell-and-breakdowns on level 10. But you’ve sort of got to go through all of that to get to the end, and it’s always worth it at the end. Having your pieces come together, and getting to stand back and look at your finished body of work is a feeling of pride matched by little else. You’ve just got to be stubborn enough to not give up when you’re drowning in assignments!

Favorite part about being a designer ?

I get a rush from making things. The ability to dream something up, and then be able to creative a physical reality of that imagined design that you can hold in your hands. I just really like the hands-on part of fashion design. I find I can pass entire days working away at a project in my studio, totally enthralled by the process of making something.

Advice to anyone wanting to study your course?

It’s a lot of hard work, but it’s been the best years of my life. It’ a pretty all-consuming course, so you need to be ready to make sacrifices, but in the end you come out knowing a lot more about who you are and what you’re capable of.

couple quickie random fun questions!

Favourite fabric?

It’s hard to go past a good wool. But I’m a fabricphile in general, so my favourite fabric is always “this amazing such-and-such that I found last week!” 

 

If I didn’t study fashion I’d be studying…

I actually did a year of study at Melbourne Uni before coming to study fashion at RMIT. I did subjects in sociology, anthropology and creative writing. These are things that I’m still really interested in, and which do feed into a lot of the concept development for my work in fashion design (sociological theory surrounding identity, and anthropological analysis of social practices especially).

Mexio or Spain

Spain. Right now I’m being run sort of ragged by my workload for 4th year, so tapas and siestas sounds like it would be a dream escape!

 

 

Pizza or Pasta

Pizza.

 

If you could have one magical super power what would it be?
Tricky one… I’ve always thought that it’d be awesome to be able to fly. Though time manipulation would come in super handy too, haha!

I never leave the house without my…..

Headphones. Boring as it is, I’m pretty much spending all my time working on my fourth year stuff in my home studio, and only really leaving the house for uni or on supply shopping trips! I have to have my music with me when I’m working, so a good pair of headphones is essential for me to be able to plug into when I get to uni, and get help get me in  
the groove. 




Special thanks to Debbie! Good luck in your final year!!!  xx

STUDENT FEATURE: DANIELLE FOSBERRY

DANIELLE FOSBERRY

How did you all come up with the idea and concept for this event? 

We wanted to create a very fun, performative and interactive fashion event. As most of the ideas and concepts become lost when presented on a runway.

We wanted to give local talents around Melbourne the chance to collaborate on an event, as we feel that the possibilities are endless through collaborations, as everyone has such amazing ideas.

It's not everyday that you find an organization or venue that is willing to help support and promote local talents. Room680 has put their complete faith in everyone involved and has encouraged everyone to be as creative as they would like.

What year are you currently in at RMIT?

 I have just completed my 3rd year of the RMIT's Bachelor of Design (Fashion) Honours and will be entering my final year as of March.

I have previously graduated from the RMIT Diploma of Advanced Fashion Design and Technology (as mentioned above) at the Brunswick campus, then transferred over to the Honours Degree.

With your collection, how long did it take you to create?

My collection consists of various pieces that I have created over my last 2 years of the RMIT City degree. Over the past few weeks, I then created various add-on garments to create entire looks.

 Did you have a theme for the collection you presented at the event? 

I personally did not have a theme in mind for my collection, as my style is constantly changing.

I guess you could say that this collection is quite tailored, structured and slightly dark. It seems to be the style of clothing I have been attracted to lately. However, most of my work tends to consist of leather and structured silhouettes. photo

What are your future goals and dreams for the fashion industry?

I would ideally love to intern overseas for a large international label, possibly then work for them for a couple of years and then eventually start my own label. Fingers crossed!

Advice for anyone who is currently studying fashion?

Studying fashion requires a lot of hard work and dedication. You're not 'just sewing' or 'just drawing pretty pictures' which is the opinions I often hear. If you love it and enjoy it, then hang in there as there will obviously be some tough moments, but it's definitely worthwhile.

Personally I have used uni as an advantage to experiment with my creativity, innovation and ideas. It's a period where I can be as crazy as I'd like, without worrying about hitting sales targets and a large consumer base, which is expected once you enter the industry

CASEY DEMKO

You’ve graduated rmit with two courses under your belt and you specialise in wool construction!

Tell us what does that entail? And when and how did you know you wanted to specialise in that area?

I've graduated from two RMIT courses. The first I completed was the Associate Degree in Fashion Technology where I made the choice I become a knitwear major. I carried that through to my second course where I completed the Bachelor of Applied Science (Fashion Technology). At the beginning of the first course students we offered the choice to do main stream or the knitwear component after industry feedback to the university said there was a lack of skill in this area. I've always loved knitting, my grandmother taught me when I was young so I decided why not learn the industrial side of things. I am of the first ever to graduate from the knitwear major, I'm one of only 6. It's similar to the main stream course however it's more specialised and at certain times we had more classes and I feel, a heavier workload... But that's just personal opinion!

what inspired your collection? And during the event how did you come about your garden theme? It was so adorable I loved it!

Thank you! Last year I visited Monet's garden in France on a study tour with uni. I fell in love with the beauty and vibe of the place. while it was so visually rich there was this overwhelming feeling that I just can't describe, it was luscious, full of time and just gorgeous. I used this inspiration an earlier collection which was actually lingerie and then carried it through to the dresses you seen on the night. I also drew inspiration from traditional handcrafts such as crochet, beading and of course knitting. As I have a strong passion for handcrafts it is always present in all my collections.

I was fascinated by your story on your crochet daisy dress, what inspired you to do this

At the begging I was really suffering from a creative block, one day I was experimenting crochet flowers to create earrings, and I just thought if I could crochet a lot of then why not make a dress? And really that's how it come about, it sort of just hit me...

What pros and cons did you encounter while creating such a beautiful piece?

When I'm asked this it's easy to think of the cons, being an end of year piece for uni I found it quiet stressful. The dress is made from over 450 crochet flowers with a Swarovski crystal attached to the center of each and I had to work solely to tight dead lines as well as create the other pieces and of course all the rest that goes with completing an assessment. The pros are obviously the beauty of it. Hand made is always precious and while at times I did find it stressful it was worth it, I completed it... I made something timeless and gorgeous and that I'm extremely proud of.

During the night you explained to me how you added the metallic yarn within your dress, explain to everyone how you did this?

For this particular dress I created it on an industrial knitting machine which I worked closely with a knitwear technician to achieve. The metallic yarn is called lurex, which I used in a technique called plating. The dress was made using a whole garment machine- which means it literally came off the machine as a finished garment. So anyway, plating is achieved by running two end of lurex through the machine keeps on the inside of the fabric that is being knitted. We call this side the technical back. For the teapot motifs the stitches are reverse so that the backside comes through the front as so the silver picture of a teapot appears. It can be difficult to describe without using knitwear lingo, which won't make sense to people with no industrial knit knowledge.

What are your future plans?

I’ve just recently moved into a studio in the nicolous building on Swanston street. My plans are to work in industry to fund my dreams of running my label Casey Marie.

What advice do you have for future students in the industry?

My advice to students is to stay positive, keep true to yourself and focus on the bigger picture of getting yourself to where you want to be.